When it comes to alcohol packaging or labelling, it’s important to stand out – especially in the craft beer arena. With so many choices available when it comes to brand, style and flavour, brewers want to grab the attention of the consumer and hope to keep them as a customer once they have tried the beer on offer. But breweries have continued to come under fire for having labels that are deemed inappropriate or offensive.
Recently, Mike King’s charity I Am Hope declined support from an Ironfist Charity Fight Night boxing event because the beer Swordfish Mojo, which has the tagline “not for pussies” was being co-promoted alongside the event.
In August this year, Upper Hutt Brewery, Te Aro Brewing, was ordered to remove its Kupe New Zealand IPA from sale after it was found to be in breach of advertising standards. The beer – named after the Polynesian navigator as part of Te Aro’s Age of Discovery series – was called “highly offensive” by Māori cultural advisor and tikanga expert, Dr Karaitiana Taiuru. A complainant to the Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) said the advertising was “appalling cultural appropriation of a Rangatira of significant status in Te Ao Māori and Pasifika”.
In 2016, Birkenhead Brewing Company used the names of Te Arawa ancestors Tutanekai and Hinemoa from Rotorua on two of their beer labels. According to the NZ Herald, the company received a social media backlash against the use of the images, including a death threat to staff that was being investigated by police. The brewery apologised for the use of the images.
And outside New Zealand, in 2018 Brussels Beer Project in Belgium apologised for naming one its beers Māori Tears. And in 2020, Hell’s Basement Brewery in Canada unwittingly naming one of its beers Huruhuru pale ale, thinking it meant “feather” – but it is, in fact, commonly used to mean pubic hair.
A significant percentage of labels that come under fire is due to cultural appropriation of Māori and Māori culture.
What exactly is cultural appropriation? The Oxford dictionary states it is the unacknowledged or inappropriate adoption of the customs, practices, ideas, etc. of one people or society by members of another and typically more dominant people or society. Cultural appropriation can reinforce stereotypes and cause offence and harm.
And obviously, this can happen to any cultural group around the world. There have been a number of instances of breweries misappropriating Hindu symbols, imagery or deity on a beer label in recent years.
But the issues regarding appropriation of Māori culture in New Zealand prompted the Brewers Guild of New Zealand to release a guide to “help ensure an appropriate reflection of Māori and Māori culture in beer labelling, sales and markets and at beer events” in 2019.
The guide states: “It is essential to remember that Māori are tangata whenua, they are people – the first people of Aotearoa/New Zealand. Māori are not fictional characters to be used as a sales or marketing tool.” It includes key lessons and insights into cultural appropriation and can be accessed for free here: https://brewersguild.org.nz/wp-content/uploads/2024/05/2019-Guide-to-Appropriate-Use-of-Maori-Culture-in-the-Brewing-Industry-Jan-2019-v2.pdf.
There is also the NZ Intellectual Property Office Māori branding guidelines, which are available here: https://www.iponz.govt.nz/get-ip/trade-marks/practice-guidelines/current/maori-advisory-committee-and-maori-trade-marks/.
With both guidelines clearly set out, there really is no reason that – five years later – a beer is ordered to be removed from the shelves for not following said guidelines.
Dr Karaitiana Taiuru says she finds it difficult to understand how anyone in New Zealand can get this wrong. “[There is] so much awareness in the communities and resources online,” she told The Shout NZ. “We are a multicultural country with many different social groups that we should all consider.”
Dr Taiuru says the use of Māori cultural objects is considered offensive for a variety of reasons, including spiritual/religious beliefs and appropriation of culture. And not only does it have a negative effect on Māori but it could also cause negative perception of the brand and therefore, potential loss of income.
“People with disposable income are more likely to spend their money at ethically appropriate businesses, as is the New Zealand trend with investing in only ethical investments,” says Dr Taiuru.
The tough lesson learnt by Te Aro this year should be a reminder to all brewers – not just New Zealanders, but brewers globally – that cultural appropriation on beer labels is not ok. As a business, it’s the job of those in charge to do their due diligence, and it’s vital that before a label, can or bottle that incorporates any cultural elements is produced, that careful consideration is taken and advice and/or permission is sought.
“Brewers should ask themselves why they want to use Māori culture to brand and promote a product that research proves causes so much social and health harm to Māori,” says Dr Taiuru. “And if certain branding could be seen to entice the same vulnerable demographic by using Māori brandings.
“Appreciating Māori cultural practices and knowledge if using products in the beverage could be appropriate in some instances,” she says. “But I would suggest engaging with a brand expert that either has the appropriate knowledge or who can outsource it.” You can find Te Kāhui Māngai (Directory of Iwi and Māori Organisations) here: https://www.tkm.govt.nz/.
So if your business – brewery or otherwise – is in the process of new product design, all labels, marketing campaigns and any other advertising pertaining to the product should be respectful and culturally appropriate. When in doubt, find someone to consult. It’s cool to be proud of living in Aotearoa, but let’s just get it right!
Lead image: Māori folk dancer performing. Credit: iStock/Wirestock
