Ross and Sunny Lusted, the lauded Sydney restaurateurs behind Woodcut and the now-closed Bridge Room, are set to unveil their first Melbourne venues this Thursday, 5 December.
Using charcoal and wood fire cooking and taking cues from Portugues cuisine is Marmelo, a 90-seat restaurant with an intimate bar, and 14-seater private dining room. Downstairs is Mr Mills, a late-night bar and supper club with an open kitchen.
In Marmelo, traditional hand painted Portuguese tiles feature, alongside original artworks by Lucy Roleff and Ben Mazey. The woodfire grill and glass wine room are focal points of the dining room.
“Having grown up in South Africa, the influences of Portugal have always been a part of our food culture,” says Ross.
“Marmelo is inspired by the small restaurants and bars of coastal Portugal and Spain where the markets, like Melbourne, are integral to the fabric of daily life. I will focus on showcasing the abundant resources of the centrally located Melbourne markets as well as smaller Victorian producers. There is so much incredible produce right here in Victoria,” he says.
Snacks include salted Murray cod and potato croquette, with whipped potato, and hot mustard sauce; clams with vinho verde, sweet onions, and coriander; a parsley root nata, with picked and shelled spanner crab; southern calamari with goat milk butter and soft herbs; and a burnt rice pancake with prawns in garlic oil and tomato refogado.
Large items harness the woodfire grill, with wood roasted cockerel with African spices, chilli, and fried potatoes; bone-in pork loin, with bitter greens, burnt orange, and bay leaf; arroz de marisco with carolino rice, and grilled, poached, and cured seafood for two; and a Robbins Island vintage beef rib eye, MBS 7+ 700gr. A succulent suckling pig shoulder, with oranges, and rosemary is also available.
Desserts feature “Pudim Abade de Priscos”, a 19th century steamed pork and egg pudding; woodfired olive oil cheesecake with sea salt; and seasonal quince in line with the restaurant’s namesake.
Downstairs, and beyond a Niqui Toldi hand-painted mural, is Mr Mills. The basement bar features chef’s counter dining, intimate booths, and a DJ booth in front of works by Nick Thomm and Dion Horstmans.
Mr Mills’ late-night open kitchen will serve small plates including swordfish in olive oil with ash-grilled peppers; mussels escabeche with pickled carrots, Ananda capers, and bitter leaves; and a fillet steak with whipped anchovy, potato crisps, and a fried egg.
“Ross and I feel a real synergy with the vibrancy of Melbourne and all of its culinary offerings, so it is an honour to be welcomed so warmly into the local dining community. Ross and I can’t wait to share our take on the food and hospitality of the Iberian Peninsula, here in this beautiful city,” says Sunny.
Interior design studio Mitchell & Eades designed the venue with tactile natural materials like clay to reflect the aesthetics of Portugal. The design team says the philosophy of “embracing the beauty found in imperfection” informed every aspect of the design of Marmelo and Mr Mills.
“Texture and authenticity play pivotal roles, and the result is a space that resonates with history, vibrancy, and community – a place where the past and present collide, inviting guests to share in the rich narrative of Russell House,” says the design team.
Marmelo and Mr Mills are located beside boutique hotel Melbourne Place on Russell Street. The venue will be open for lunch and dinner Tuesday to Saturday, and for ‘supper’ Thursday to Saturday from 10-11pm.
Photography: Anson Smart
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